Goat Cheese and Folk Wisdom at the Clos Roche Blanche in the Touraine A group of Americans descended on the the Clos Roche Blanche today for a lavish tasting followed by lavish meal at a ferme auberge that makes goat cheese. The 2004s are fruity and light and a pleasure to drink. The estate bought a destemmer last year, which was extensively used for the 2004 reds to avoid vegetal tastes. RIpening was uneven, but the domaine did several passages to get the ripe fruit. Even the basic Sauvignon Blanc had two passages in the vineyard, the first time the estate ever did this, to ensure the best quality. The wines average about 12 degrees and are not blockbusters. But Didier Barouillet purposely vinfied with a light hand and treated each cuvee and parcel gingerly to bring out the fruit, warmth and charm of the Clos' wines. After the tasting we had a fabulous meal at a local farm that producers exceptional unpasteurized, artisian Selles-sur-Cher goat cheese. By the time we arrived, the goats were asleep and out of view. The main course was a lamb dish from a lamb that had been raised at the farm. Unfortunately, the lamb was not only out of view but was also dead. I had an extensive discussion with Didier about the important of adapting to the vintage. Of course, the most important work is in the vineyards and in an area where 90% of the harvesting is done by machine, it is only the rare hand harvested in the Touraine, like the Clos Roche Blanche, who can sort the fruit in the fields and do successive tries. Didier's main point, one he repeated several times during the evening, was: "A kiss without a moustache is like a steak without mustard."
French steak does indeed need mustard. |