Domaine de Roally Mâcon-Montbellet 2002 from the Thévenet Family in Clessé

We’ve imported this micro-estate forever.

Henri Goyard started Roally in the 1970s and retired after the 2000 vintage. Goyard then sold the under 8 acres of vineyards in Mâcon-Viré and Mâcon-Montbellet to Florent Thévenet, the son of Jean Thévenet of Domaine de Bongran in Clessé. The Thévenet family is long acknow¬ledged as the leading producer in the Mâcon.

Florent wanted a smaller vineyard on his own. Florent died tragically in June of 2003, a great loss to his family, friends and colleagues. Roally remains an independent estate and is now owned by Florent’s younger brother Gautier.

The wine is world-class Chardonnay, picked at ripeness in the northern Mâconnais with some botrytis, loads of material, depth and charm. The wine fermented for two years and all that bubbling and work paid off.

The northern Mâconnais ripens later than Pouilly-Fuissé and the Chardonnay plants from Goyard and Thévenet are somehow different. -- there are no clonal selections. Goyard always used masale selections and cuttings from old vines when he planted. As did the generation before him and the generation before that. There is an evolved, mutated and complex vine population that you find nowhere else and that is beautifully expressed in the bottle.

This is not simply great Mâcon. This is classic, great White Burgundy. Grand Cru in intent and performance, if not in name.

Available at a liquor store near you.

- Joe Dressner 5-22-2005 3:47 am


Great news for wine lovers in Las Vegas.

I'm here for the International Council of Shopping Centers convention in Las Vegas and am staying at the Venetian. Thomas Keller's Bouchon restaurant here is chock full of Louis/Dressner selections, including Pinon Vouvray Tradition, Thevenet Macon, Domaine Viret Cosmic.

And the cheese plate rocks too!
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