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The Next Big Thing -- Georgian Wine!
I recently learned that many wine industry insiders are counting on wine from Georgia to be the next big thing in wine consumption. Perhaps bigger than Yellowtail.
In Georgia it is frowned upon to drink wine alone. When two or more Georgians get together to enjoy wine, one of them will be designated "Tamada”. Tamada is similar to what westerners refer to as “master of ceremonies”. A Tamada sets the tone of the feast. He selects the wine and blesses the host wishing him many fruitful harvests. He then welcomes all that are gathered to fill their khantsis (a vessel made out of a mountain ram's horn) and leads in the following 7 toasts :
The first toast is to peace. After the Tamada drinks his wine each participant stands up and toasts to peace as well.
With the second toast, the Tamada blesses the hostess thanking her for the warm welcome and compliments her on her efforts. Again, all stand and say a toast in her honor. After this toast is said, the hostess must pick up her khantsi and say a toast of thanks to all that have come.
The third toast goes to the country, wishing prosperity, a bright future and the defeat of all enemies. All then stand and toast to the country. At this time, participants will strike up a song of praise to their country.
For the fourth, a toast is said in honor of all the mothers.
Next, the Tamada offers a toast to all that have passed away and have earned the right to be remembered. At this point, the hostess brings a dish with bread and salt. This toast is the only one where the Tamada leaves some wine in the khantsi in honor of their memory. The Tamada then pour this wine onto the bread.
Immediately after this, he leads everyone in a toast to life, which is the sixth toast.
The seventh toast is dedicated to love and it’s importance in our everyday lives.
My thanks to Jim Parker and his fabulously informative site: www.ndoba.com
Clever Comments
I simply don't have any.
My mother is in the hospital for six weeks now and I'm feeling depressed.
Anyone know a good apartment in the St-Henri area of Montréal? I have to find one next week for my son.
The rosé of the year, beyond a doubt, is the fabulous Folie de Brun. I drank this in bottle for the first time this past week. It is a mix of all the initial fermentation batches from Brun's various Beaujolais cuvées. Absolutely delicious.
My God! I'm degenerating into rote blogging!
Help!
Don't Miss Saturday's Fabulously Exciting Chambers Street Tasting!
Eddie, Kevin, Denyse and I will be at New York's famed Chambers Street Wine Shop for an exciting tasting starting a 4 pm.
We will be showing an insane amount of new releases from many of our newer growers, along with a vertical of inventory close-outs.
Don't miss this exciting event!
Eric Asimov Blogs about Philippe Pacalet Burgundies and Poulsard from Houillon/Overnoy
Eric Asimov, The New York Times wine writer, now has a blog.
Everyone has a blog these days, but this one has lots of interesting reading. The mainstream media has always been so distant from real wine, seemingly rehashing press releases from major distributors and wineries. It is truly a pleasure to read Mr. Asimov's work as he sorts through the wine world to find wines of genuine pleasure.
Years ago, a Times mention of Burgundy would simply be Latour, Jadot and DRC. Of course, Asimov cannot ignore these references. But I was pleased to read in today's blog installment:
All the Pacalet wines I’ve had have always been pure and beautifully aromatic. They are light and graceful, rarely tannic, and never buried in new oak, so you can enjoy them young, like this one. By contrast, the Jadot, which I think is one of the best of the bigger Burgundy producer/negociants, seemed saturated in the vanilla flavors that come from new oak. Maybe this was just in comparison to the Pacalet, but this wine seemed somewhat generic, not bad but not a wine of much distinction, though perhaps a few more years will help.
The other week, Mr. Asimov wrote about wines from the Jura:
I have a 2001 Cotes du Jura from Domaine Ganevat, a dry white made from the little-known savagnin grape, and a 2002 Arbois red from Emmanuel Houillon, made from the equally little known poulsard grape.
Suffice it to say that these wines challenge almost everything that the 21st century prizes in wine. The white has a nutty, sherry-like aroma that many people regard as hopelessly oxidized, but it is actually tangy, complex, pure and delicious. The poulsard barely has enough color to be called a red. It is light-bodied yet with a graceful intensity and an earthy funk that turns floral and strawberry-like with air.
All these wines are actually purchased somewhere by Mr. Asimov and are not freeby handouts from wine importers or distributors. Of course, he does have the resources of the New York Times behind him. But I find it admirable that he has gone beyond winewriting clichés and is making an effort to find out what is actually interesting out there.
Take a look at his blog:
Eric Asimov Blog
Some Personal Notes
Yesterday was the sixth anniversary of my quadruple bypass surgery.
Feeling nostalgic for New York University Hospital, I went to visit my mother who has been in the Hospital for four weeks now. Several days ago, her neurologist had the brilliant diagnosis that she has Myastenthia Gravis. Turns out, not only is this true, but after four days of medication my mother can speak almost like normal. I'm sending a case of Platypus Peter to the doctor!
Being around hospitals reminds me that my hands have become arthritic. I have seen some of the greatest minds in the Arthritis racket and all they can propose are health store supplements which The New England Journal of Medicine swear don't do a thing, or major surgery which will keep me in casts and pain for months and which might do nothing for me. Ouch, my hands hurt!
The biggest problem posed by my hand pain is that I have trouble taking out corks from bottles (and am not convinced that screw caps are the second coming of Jesus Christ) and I cannot hold a cell phone to my face for an extended period. So, I walk around with a bluetooth headset.
Which leads me to two more perplexing questions -- (1) why can't someone invent a bluetooth headset which works in the streets of New York and blocks out noise (all these units are meant for suburbanites in their cars) and (2) isn't there a way to turn off the annoying flashing blue light so that I don't look like an extraterrestial or social misfit?
Not that there's anything wrong with being a social misfit.
A Great Connecticut Tasting!
I had a great tasting today at Francos Wines in New Canaan, Connecticut.
This store has been a great supporter of ours and has been key to our strategic goal of getting tasty, obscure wines into the hands of patrician American families.
Immediately following the in-store tasting, we went to the Westport Country Club, where we conducted a vertical tasting of Clos des Papillons from the Domaine du Closel/Château des Vaults.
All our thanks to Rick and Carl and the entire staff at Francos for all the work they have done for our vignerons.
In an unrelated development, my mother had her tracheostomy changed to a metal pipe. Today, the pipe was plugged and she was able to speak and breath naturally.
After not speaking for over two weeks, here first words were: Make Mine Platypus Pete!
Only 21 Hours and 28 Minutes Until Tomorrow's Tasting!
There has been a lot of hype about tomorrow's semi-secret Louis/Dressner tasting.
Some of the samples have just arrived and several of the growers have decided to no longer put vintages on their wines.
There will be lots of other exciting surprises, so don't miss the exciting tasting tomorrow!
Exciting Line-Up at the Louis/Dressner Mini-Tasting on Wednesday
Send an e-mail or call me on my cell phone if you didn't receive an invite with the location. My cell number is 646-823-1293.
Red Wines
1 Clos du Tue-Boeuf Touraine Gamay 2004
2 Clos de Tue-Boeuf Guerrerie 2004
3 Domaine le Briseau VdT la Pangée (2005)
4 Domaine le Briseau Coteaux-du-Loir les Mortiers 2004
5 Domaine de Belliviere Coteaux-du-Loir Rouge Gorge 2004
6 Domaine de Belliviere Coteaux-du-Loir Hommage a Louis Derré 2004
7 Agnès & René Mosse Anjou Rouge 2004
8 Clos Roche Blanche la Closerie 2004
9 Olga Raffault Chinon la Poplinière 2004
10 Olga Raffault Chinon les Picasses 2002
11 Paul Pernot & Fils Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2004
12 Philippe Pacalet Pommard 2004
13 Philippe Pacalet Chambolle-Musigny 2004
14 Philippe Pacalet Nuits St George 2004
15 Philippe Pacalet Gevrey-Chambertin 2004
16 Philippe Pacalet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru les Perrieres 2004
17 Emmanuel Houillon Arbois Pupillin Poulsard 2002
18 Raymond Quenard Chignin Mondeuse VV 2005
19 Château Moulin Pey-Labrie Canon Fronsac 2000
20 Marcel Richaud Cairrane 2004
21 I Vigneri di Salvo Foti Sicilia Rosso IGT Vignupetra 2003
White Wines
22 Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Brut Tradtion NV
23 Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Brut Blanc de Blancs
24 Larmandier Bernier Terre de Vertus 1er Cru Non-Dosé NV
25 Larmandier Bernier Brut Blanc des Blancs 2001
26 Domaine le Briseau Pet Nat (2004)
27 Luneau-Papin Muscadet-sur-Lie-de-Sevre-et-Maine Pierres Blanches 2004
28 Luneau-Papin Muscadet-sur-Lie-de-Sevre-et-Maine Clos dé Alées 2004
29 Luneau-Papin Muscadet Semper Excelsior Cru de Nantes Clos du Poyet 2002
30 Clos du Tue-Boeuf Touraine Sauvignon le Buisson Pouilleux 2004
31 Domaine le Briseau Jasnières Khararktêr 2004
32 Domaine le Briseau Jasnières Clos de Longue Vignes 2004
33 Domaine le Briseau VdT Galamatias 2004
34 Domaine le Briseau Coteaux-du-Loir le Briseau 2004
35 Domaine de Bellivière Coteaux-du-Loir l'Effraie 2004
36 Domaine de Bellivière Coteaux-du-Loir VV Èparses 2004
37 Domaine de Belliviere Jasnières les Rosiers 2004
38 Domaine de Bellivière Jasnières Calligramme 2004
39 Agnès & René Mosse Anjou Blanc 2004
40 Agnès & René Mosse Anjou Blanc le Rouchefer 2004
41 Domaine de la Sansonnière Anjou Blanc la Lune 2004
42 Paul Pernot & Fils Bourgogne Blanc 2004
43 Paul Pernot & Fils Puligny-Montrachet 2004
44 Domaine de Roally Macon-Montbellet 2003
45 Emmanuel Houillon Arbois Pupillin Chardonnay 2004
46 Raymond Quenard Chignin VV 2005
47 Raymond Quenard Chignin Bergeron VV 2005
Happy 50th Birthday to the Shipping Container!
It was 50 years ago that the first "containers" packed with cargo shipped on a freighter from Newark, New Jersey to Houston. The containers were converted truck bodies which allowed shippers to pack, truck, ship and unload freight in an economical and efficient way.
The result may have been globalization and an international economy, with all that is bad and objectionable to standardization. But it has also meant that wine importers, amongst others, can get products all over America. Shipping in containers, in our case refrigerated containers, has become the only way to transport wine and allows a case of wine to arrive in New York City or San Francisco at a sum of money not much higher that it costs to ship from Burgundy to Paris.
No one ever thinks of the shipping container as a major invention, but it is amazing to think how it has totally altered international commerce.
On a related note, my mother has been responding well to Mestinon to treat her Myasthenia Gravis, now that her doctors have a diagnosis, and is slowly improving. My thanks for all the notes I received from everyone out there.
Nigerian Wine Schemes!
Everyday I get a new Nigerian wine scam where I can make a fortune.
The New Yorker just ran an article on all the scams coming out of Nigeria where you can make a quick $45 million dollars if you just lay out a few thousand dollars to aid the son of a former military despot. Incredibly, the scammers are able to reel in suckers who lost their shirts.
These scammers must have finally realized how gullible and wealth we are in The Wine Industry and I have been targetted with a range of propositions. Todays solicitation:
Dear Sales,
Please forward the price quote of the item listed bellow.
DOM PERIGNON 1998 75cl X 4 cases(12 BOTTLES IN A CASE)
Do advise the total cost for the quantity requested with shipping cost by Dhl express or Fedex express to the address below.
I will forward my credit card details for payment as soon as I receive the final quote.
Awaiting your quick response.
Regards,
Bola Adedeji.
Name;Bola Adedeji
# 4 Adedokun street,
Mushin,Lagos,23401
Nigeira.
Laurent Barth on Natural Wines
I met a young guy from Alsace at the hipster wine fair in Angers last February, who I was told was making great natural wines.
We arranged to get some samples, tasted them this week, and we're going to work with him. We found his wines precise, delicate, dry, charming and reasonably priced.
Laurent Barth took over a micro-estate in Bennwihr from his family and is just starting out. He sent us some nice explanations about how he works in France, which I lazily translated through one of the internet translation machines. It is a rather nice summation of what making natural wines is about:
This vision of things is idealistic, but for me a wine should always reflect its soil as well as possible, its vine type and, why not, its vigneron. This type of winemaking can generate wines with inaccuracies and imperfections but the wine will have an identity.
An Amazing Fact About the New York University Medical Center
There's a guy working on the 17th Floor of the Tisch Building who is the spitting image of Charlie Foucault of the Clos Rougeard!
Good news today. My father was released after a brief one-day tumor tune-up and my mother has been upgraded to Myasthenia Gravis.
I've already sent a generous contribution to the Myastenia Gravis Foundation.
Don't Miss the Secret Louis/Dressner Trade Tasting on Wednesday May 17th
Yes, we are having a secret trade tasting, a small informal event, on May 17th from 11:15 to 5:25 pm.
Wines being shown will include:
* Larmandier-Bernier Champagnes
* Philippe Pacalet Burgundies from Old Vines
* I Vigneri di Salvo Foti
* Clos du Tue-Boeuf, Jean-Marie & Thierry Puzelat, Touraine
* Luneau-Papin Muscadets
* Domaine de Belliviere, Christine & Eric Nicolas, Jasnieres
* Clos Roche Blanche Touraine, Mareuil-sur-Cher
* Touraine Rouge Closerie 2004 (cot, gamay &cab fr)
* Domaine le Briseau, Natalie & Christian Choussard, Jasniéres
* Domaine de la Sansonnière, Mark Angeli, Bonnezeaux
* Domaine de Roally Mâcons from Jean & Gauthier Thévenet
* Paul Pernot & Fils, Puligny-Montrachet
* Domaine Marcel Richaud, Cairanne
* Domaine Emmanuel Houillon/Pierre Overnoy Jura Wines
* Anjou Wines from Réné Mosse
The tasting is being held at a small venue and we are encouraging everyone to attend the Lauber Wines tasting on Tuesday, the day before our tasting. I hear there is going to be a great line-up at that event!
The tasting location is conveniently located near several major subway lines, including the IRT, IND and BMT. There is also access by taxi.
This is an invite-only affair, although casual clothing is acceptable. Most of you have received e-mail invites, but feel free to send me an e-mail if you need more information. Alternatively, you can call me on my cell phone at 346-321-3430. I'm spending a lot of time in hospital these days and you have to turn off the cell phone when you are around medical equipment. So, feel free to leave a message if you get my answering machine. Someone from the Louis/Dressner Organization will get back to you.
Don't Miss the Wine Importer's Fabulous Tasting at Francos Wines in New Canaan, CT on May 20th
That's right. I will be conducting a tasting at Francos fabulous wine emporium, centrally located in New Canaan, Connecticut on Saturday, May 20th from 1 to 5 pm.
I always look forward to meeting New Canaan residents at these tasting and I promise to wear plaid pants, a pink button down shirt with a clever logo, and to be polite, informative, entertaining and semi-comprehensible.
There will be lots of great wines served, so you don't want to miss this fabulous event. Even if you are from Westport.
Summertime is Coming: The Time for ICV-K1
My father checked into the hospital yesterday but everything seems to be going well. My mother is now in the hospital for her 12th day and they are hoping to be near a diagnosis and plan of action. I was talking with my cousin Helen yesterday, and she was telling me how she loves light, fresh and crisp wines. Her favorite indigenous yeast is the ICV-K1 (V1116), which Helen considers to be the secure choice for light, fresh andcrisp whites
ICV-K1 tends to express freshness of white grape varieties. Natural fresh fruit aromas are retained for a longer time when compared with wines fermented with standard yeast strains (such as Prise de Mousse). When fermented at low temperatures (below 16°C) and with the right addition of nutrients (GO-FERM and Fermaid K), ICV-K1 is one of the more flowery ester producers (isoamyl acetate, hexyl acetate, phenyl ethyl acetate).
These esters bring fresh floral aromas to neutral varieties or high yield grapes. Among the high ester producers, ICV-K1 is the most resistant to difficult fermentation conditions such as low turbidity, low temperature, and low fatty acid content. ICV-K1 can withstand a wide range of fermentation temperatures (10° to 42°C) and tolerate alcohol up to 18%. ICV-K1 is recommended for the fermentation of ice wines. It can also be used for rosé or basic red wines.
ICV-D47 -- My Cousin Paul's Favorite Yeast
With my mother being ill, I have to spend many hours on the telephone with concerned family members discussing the quality of my mother's medical staff. Many of my family members are convinced that there is a "Big Man in the Field" out there who has the immediate answer. My mother, who is sharp and alert, would also like to find this "Big Man in the Field." Maybe the annual New York Magazine issue with ratings of local doctors will come out soon. Anyhow, I was speaking with my cousin Paul and I was surprised to discover that his favorite industrial yeast is the ICV-D47.
The ICV-D47 is a great industrial yeast to make complex whites with citrus and floral notes
ICV-D47 is a Côtes du Rhône isolate for the production of full-bodied barrel fermented Chardonnay and other white varietals. Although ICV-D47 has an optimum temperature range of 18° to 28°C, the best results are obtained at around 20°C. When left on lees, ripe spicy aromas with tropical and citrus notes are developed. ICV-D47 is a high polysaccharide producer known for its accentuated fruit and great volume.
My Dog Buster
Pictured above is a recent picture of my dog Buster.
Buster's favorite industrial yeast is the VQ15 to get concentrated reds.
VQ15 was isolated by Vinquiry and selected in collaboration with winemaker Jeff Cohn from spontaneous Rockpile Syrah fermentations. This new California isolate is used in concentrated reds, particularly Syrah, Zinfandel, Cabernet sauvignon and Merlot where a moderate fermentation rate is desired for rich, lush, balanced mouthfeel and full bodied wines. VQ15 has a moderate nitrogen demand and will allow good results with varietal flavor and red fruit and mineral aromatic note development when carefully rehydrated using Go-Ferm and inoculated into musts.
Buster particularly likes wines which combine VQ15 with Oenotan. Oenotan gives those sort of suave tannins which Buster likes so much.
BM45: The Big Movement in winemaking
My mother is stable, still in the hospital, and out of Intenstive Care and in what they call a step-down unit. No one knows what is wrong with her, but she is not well. I want to thank everyone who has sent me their best wishes! I told my mother I am featuring a range of industrial yeasts on my blog and she is very pleased, although she is not enjoying wine these days, even naturally fermented wines. She is not in good health, but she is responsive, intelligent and sharp -- just physically impaired. So, let's keep going with the top stars of the industrial yeast world!
BM45 was isolated in the early 1990's in collaboration with the Consorzio del Vino Brunello de Montalcino and the University of Siena. BM45 is a relatively slow starter and is well suited for long maceration programs. It has high nitrogen requirements and can produce H2S if nutrient starved. Especially when used in whites, BM45 benefits greatly when rehydrated with GO-FERM.
BM45 produces high levels of polysaccharides resulting in wines with great mouthfeel and improved color stability. BM45 is used on red varieties to contribute jam, spice and earthy elements. It also is used to minimize vegetal characteristics. Some winemakers use BM45 on Chardonnay as a blending component to increase mouthfeel.