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Only 37 Hours Left Before the Big Mosse Tasting!
I'm at the office cleaning-up and writing witty and irreverant tasting notes. My whole day has been turned upside down because my bicycle had a flat tire this afternoon and I did not have a spare tube with me. I found a great food blog today by a woman named PIM. Otherwise, I am now using an old double-edged razor from a German manufacturer named Merkur. I have never had a closer shave but I have had to put up with some nicks and scratches while I acclimate my face to the new system.
You Too Can Meet Agnès and René Mosse, Natural Wine Vignerons from the Anjou!
Tuesday April 10th from 11:12 am through 5:18 pm
Yes, they are coming to New York on vacation and have agreed to spend a day planted in our office serving their wines.
This exciting show, squeezed into our 250-square-feet national headquarters, is open to all bonadfide members of the wine trade. No cheaters, bloggers, fake consultants or freelance journalists are allowed!
In fact, you'd better call in advance and make sure I'll let you in. My cell number is 347-819-3416.
We will also be showing new releases that we wholesale directly in New York, most of which are unsellable and already on close-outs.
See you there!
I Had a Nightmare about Henri Marionnet!
Photo by Bertrand Celce
My wife is in Italy and I'm home alone with my dog Buster.
I had trouble getting to sleep last night and had a nightmare about Henri Marionnet, the famous Touraine wine producer. I can't remember the details but it had something to do with giant reptiles and vineyard sites with 150-year-old Romorantin.
April 1st is my wife's birthday and she is dining with a group of famous Italian vignerons like Jo Pithon and Claude Maréchal.
Happy Birthday and all my love!
Cult Journalist Alice Feiring Gives Some Passover Wine Tips
Alice Feiring is tackling the difficult question of finding good Kosher wines for Passover in her latest contribution to her excellent blog.
First of all, I'd like to wish all our Jewish friends out there (which includes Alice Feiring) a merry Passover and I hope they get to share alot of kremeslach and choretses with all their loved ones on these two holy Jewish nights. The young ones always love spinning their Passover dreidls and this is a beautiful event which even Jesus Christ used to enjoy, although his last Seder didn't turn out too well for him.
Alice Feiring Winning a James Beard Award for Wine Journalism
My view has always been that the expression good Kosher wine is an oxymoron. I once told this to my former cardiologist, who is a Talmud scholar, when he noticed I was a wine importer on one of the rare occasions he actually looked at my chart. The Doctor immediately told me how there was so much great Kosher wine being made these days. When I informed him that this phrase was an oxymoron, he told me that I was going to need four heart bypasses.
Wine is an important part of the Jewish and Catholic traditions, although forbidden in Muslim and Protestant societies. I've never understood why Jews who are not Kosher feel a compulsion to drink Kosher wine on Passover, but for those of them who do feel this strange compulsion, my recommendation has always been to go with the Manischevitz Heavy Malaga. You can add some ice cubes and Kosher for Passover Seltzer to calm down the drink and reduce the cloying sweetness. And you have the advantage of not having any bad surprises -- the Heavy Malaga makes no pretense to be a Great Kosher Wine, you know how it is going to taste and it tastes reliably terrible. You won't be disappointed, you'll have no regrets. It is the oenological equivalent of eating at MacDonalds. Plus, it is cheap.
Alice Feiring touring the Clos Roche Blanche with Catherine Roussel and Didier Barouillet
Why is there no great Kosher wine? Because the very process of making Kosher wine excludes the possibility that it will be great wine. Only Sabbath observing Jews can make the wine, and not only does this notion smack of some sort of racism, it also eliminates so many of the world's great winemakers. On what basis -- their mother's weren't of Jewish origin! Additionally, to be a kosher wine, no one involved in the harvest or vinification can do anything on Friday after sundown or on Saturday during the day. What can possibly be the sense in all this arcane ritual other than religious extremism? All the great vignerons I know work like lunatics during the harvest, often around the clock, and it would be inconceivable to take off in the midst of the vendange.
Unfortunately, the harvest doesn't wait and the vinification is not sabbath observant. Making good wine is horribly complicated and requires rigor in so many little details. To reduce everything to the primacy of having guys who hang about in synagogues on Saturday brings up the more basic question: why bother drinking wine in the first place? There are lots of other beverages out there which can be easily made without any non-Jew touching the liquid. This sort of sectarian notion of the vine might have appeal during these times of sectarian and religious strife, but I'll be drinking something else. If the religious identity of who makes the wine is more important that what's in the bottle, it is impossible to create a culture of great wine.
There is a second category of Kosher wine which is even more extreme. In this case, the wine must be brought to a boiling point to cleanse the wine, a process guaranteed to destroy anything interesting in the bottle. Basically, you have to kill off all the living material in the wine to spill it on your Passover plate when you recite the 10 plagues. What's the sense in all this?
If people want to drink kosher wine out of religious superstition than it is their business. I have no objection, much as I don't care what they are serving in a Catholic Church when the Priest drinks the communion wine. What I don't understand is the compulsion to argue that these wines are world class or great. Some are better than others, but the key thing is that they are made to observe the kosher process.
I am Jewish and I am proud of being raised in the great traditions of Chico, Harpo, Groucho and Karl. I love great wine and see no reason why I have to celebrate my Passover or any other holiday drinking wine approved by a Rabbi. I would rather drink a wine that is in tune with nature, which to me is a far more spiritual notion of the world than drinking wine because it has a Rabinical seal. Radikon's Oslave 2002 went fabulously last year with gefilte fish -- it was a sublime, almost religious experience!
Please note I have revised this page after some kind soul sent me an e-mail on November 30th, 2007, pointing out that I was mistakenly lumping together the two different types of Kosher wine. The first category does not require boiling the wine, only the second more extreme category requires boiling. I didn't realize that there were two classifications of kosher wine, but it was intellectually sloppy on my part to not do further research and I would like to apologize to my readers. Blogs don't have fact checkers, but that is no excuse for writing factually misleading and wrong material. My apologies.
I have corrected the above text but my sentiment about kosher wines, boiled or unboiled, remain the same.
Anyhow, please take a look at Alice's piece on Passover by going over to her excellent blog:
Cult Wine Writer Alice Feiring on Kosher Wine
How to Evaluate Wine
Robin Garr, who was the first person to ever have a wine discussion board on the internet, is now in Italy and is evaluating Italian wine.
Mr. Garr has a wonderful video on his web site which shows the marvelous process of judging wine. This video gives insight to the public about how difficult decisions are made under often difficult circumstances.
Don't miss this exciting video:
Evaluating Italian Wines
Reports from Italy
Actually, I am on 56th Street in Manhattan, but Kevin McKenna and Denyse Louis are in Italy to attend everything but Vinitaly.
As with all major wine shows, the real activity now goes on at the "off" salons, that is the satellite tastings organized by smaller growers outside of the main event. Vinitaly is an enormous event where you can get dizzy just imagining how so much horrible wine is made and how so many people seem to buy the stuff. It is like Vinexpo on steroids. All the important people in the American trade will be there tasting all the important wines from all the important producers in Italy. Mercifully, Kevin and Denyse will be at Vini Veri, Villa Favorita and the biodynamic Velier show. In principal, these are all rotofermentor and Cottarelli-free.
I just spoke to Denyse and she is safely housed at a luxury palace in Nogara. Even the beds are nice in Italy, as compared to the horrible spots we have to sleep in when we travel through France. Kevin and Denyse are staying at a series of luxury hotels....when I travel through France the Balladins is the high price ticket and only if there is not a l'Etape Hotel in the area.
I did receive an e-mail from Kevin late last night. Kevin just spent two days in Sicily and reports that the 2006s from Arianna Occhipinti, the young new star, are stunning.
My Wife is Over the Atlantic on Her Way to Vinitaly Counter Salons!
It is 9:05 pm and my wife, Denyse Louis, is on her way to meet Ken Rosati and Kevin McKenna in Verona. From there, they will be tasting a series of Italian Real Wines at three different alternative salons organized during Vinitaly.What am I supposed to do?
Denyse's plane passed Chicoutimi some time ago, but is only starting the Atlantic crossing. I'm invited to Jorge's big birthday bash at a Congee Palace on the Bowery and am about to close up the office.
See you later!
Don't Miss Cult Wine Journalist Alice Feiring's Report on the Polaner Selections Tasting Last Week!
Some great tasting notes and commentary by Alice Feiring that are well worth reading.
Cult Wine Writer Alice Feiring's Crack Polaner Coverage
Nostalgic Feelings!
Spring is in the air and I am feeling sentimental.
It makes you realize it is great to be alive, even if Barolo estates are using the BR97 innoculated yeast and adding too much sulfur to their wine.
So many beautiful, sentimental images rush to mind today:
My Children Many Years Ago Before They DIscovered the Internet
My Wife Before I Met Her on Match.Com
Cans of Industrial Yeasts Used to Make Crappy Industrial Wines
Congratulations to the Puzelat Brothers!
Happy news from Les Montils these days.
Congratulations to the happy couple, Thierry and Jean-Marie, on the birth of Riri and Mimi!
Cult Wine Journalist Alice Feiring Now Has Comments on Her Blog!
This is your chance to participate!
I've already added several comments under the name of Randy "Bucko" Buckner. You won't want to miss out on this opportunity.
Cult Wine Writer Alice Feiring's Web Site
Don't Miss August Restaurant's Loire Valley Chenin Blanc Meal This Tuesday!
There are still some seats left and rumor has it that Alice Feiring, the wine journalist, might be in attendence at her regular table at 359 Bleecker Street!
This looks like a great event and I would be in attendence but have to go the Master Sommelier Conference in Omaha, Nebraska later today.
Chef Tony Liu has prepared a range of regionally inspired dishes to go with some great wines. Joanna Sherman, the wine educator, will be there to talk about the wines as will Ryan Ibsen from August.
Here's what you'll get:
1st Course
Belon Oyster with Nasturtium Soup
Francoise Chidaine Montlouis-Sur-Loire Brut NV
2nd Course
Poached Char with Petit Gris and Green Garlic
Domaine du Closel Savennieres “Clos Papillion” Sec 2004
3rd Course
Roasted Pork Loin with Jasnieres Prunes
Domaine de Belliviere Jasnieres “Les Rosiers” 2004
4thCourse
Pear Fourme d’Ambert
Moulin Touchais Coteaux de Layon 1993
The meal is $75.00, plus tax, plus a $20.00 tip. Don't miss this event!
Reservations are required and can be made by calling the restaurant at 212.929.8727.
Real Wine Attack on the Rampage!
Even Jeff Connell is coming down from Canada!
I've been too busy in Boston and New York to write anything about the week's events. I've also had to spend lots of time apologizing to restaurant managers for the boisterous behavior of our group.
So, instead of writing text, I have come up with a podcast narrated by Evan Spingarn, the famous wine educator, who also works for David Bowler Selections in New York.
For more details, listen to the podcast below, either on your IPOD or on your desktop computer.
Breaking Details of the Exciting Real Wine Attack in New York!
A Bottle of 2006 Clos des Briord Broken by Air France!
Marc Ollivier checked-in 12 bottles on his Air France flight from Maisdon-sur-Sevre to Boston and one bottle was broken by irresponsible and malicious handling by Air France cargo personnel.
Otherwise, everyone arrived here at the Boston Ritz-Carlton and we are preparing today's tasting with early morning seminars on how to talk with the American buying public.
Have to run and eat a frozen bagel.
The 2007 Real Wine Attack Has Begun!
I'm on an Acela speeding to Boston and handing out Josh Raynold's Muscadet reviews to the monied passengers on this deluxe train. My backrest won't recline, but otherwise it is a beautiful day and we are speeding along at 300 km/hour.
Tomorrow is the big trade tasting at some restaurant named Avila, which is somewhere in Boston, from 1 to 4 pm. 22 vignerons will be there. This will be followed by the big jeebus at Joe Perry's place.
Wednesday is the big Polaner tasting at the historic Puck Building.
Thursday is the Crushathon from 6 to 8.
Friday we disperse to 23 different stores in Brooklyn.
Saturday is the giant Chambers Street Wines tasting from 1 to 7 pm.
Don't miss these exciting events!
I also want to remind Nathan to come to our office on Thursday at 3:12 pm to pick up the Magnum of Larmandier-Bernier he won at our October trade tasting.
Your Guide to this Year's Real Wine Attack!
First Stop is Boston on March 20th!
Can you imagine! It seems like only yesterday that we launched the first Real Wine Attack and already we’re on the seventh edition.
This year’s assault will concentrate on the East Coast and will be a massive operation. Lots of new faces will be there and we’ve asked everyone to bring vineyard workers, mobile bottlers, children and significant others. This will be the Real Wine Attack to end all Real Wine Attacks.
Here's the fabulous schedule for Boston:
Boston Trade Tasting – Trade Only
Tuesday, March 20th, 1-4 pm
Avila Restaurant
One Charles Street South, Boston
- Pierre Breton from Bourgueil
- Henriette et Bernard Baudry from Chinon
- Jean-Paul Brun from Domaine des Terres Dorées in Beaujolais
- Palma Lohr Geiger et Guilhem Dardé from the Mas des Chimères in the Languedoc
- Claude-Emmanuelle et Louis-Benoît Desvignes from Domaine Desvignes in Morgon
- Grégoire Hubau from Château Moulin Pey-Labrie
- Jean Manciat from the Mâconnais
- Philippe Béraud from Mas Saint-Joseph in the Costiéres-de-Nimes
- Eric and Christine Nicolas from Domaine de Bellivière in Jasnières and Coteaux-du-Loir
- Isaure de Pontbriand et Evelyne de Jessey from Domaine du Closel in Savennières
- Geneviève Cormerais et Marc Ollivier from Domaine de la Pepiere in the Muscadet
- Franck Peillot from the Bugey (Altesse and Mondeuse)
- Francois Pinon from Vouvray
- Alain Renardat from the Bugey (Cerdon du Bugey)
- Catherine Roussel and Didier Barrouillet from the Clos Roche Blanche
- Michel Tête from Juliénas
- François Cazin from Cheverny
- Luca Roagna from Piedmont
- Suzana e Stanislao Radikon from Radikon in Friuli
Real Wine Attack 2007 in New York City at Polaner Selections Tasting on Wednesday, March 21st!
Assuming our chartered plane takes off on time and we're not stuck in Boston in a snowstorm, we will be off to New York on Tuesday night and then reconvening at the Polaner Selections Tasting the next day.
Joining us in New York will be Eric Texier, who due to a Rhône tasting in France cannot make it to Boston on Tuesday. Additionally, Catherine and Claude Maréchal from Burgundy will also be arriving in New York to join the festivities as will Manuéla and François Chidaine from Montlouis.
So, here's the fabulous schedule for the Polaner Trade tasting:
Polaner SelectionsTrade Tasting – Trade Only
Wednesday, March 21st, 11 am to 5 pm
THE PUCK BUILDING
295 LAFAYETTE STREET (Near Houston)
- Eric Texier, Rhône
- Catherine et Claude Maréchal, Burgundy
- Manuéla et François Chidaine from Montlouis and Vouvray
- Pierre Breton from Bourgueil
- Henriette et Bernard Baudry from Chinon
- Jean-Paul Brun from Domaine des Terres Dorées in Beaujolais
- Palma Lohr Geiger et Guilhem Dardé from the Mas des Chimères in the Languedoc
- Claude-Emmanuelle et Louis-Benoît Desvignes from Domaine Desvignes in Morgon
- Grégoire Hubau from Château Moulin Pey-Labrie
- Jean Manciat from the Mâconnais
- Philippe Béraud from Mas Saint-Joseph in the Costiéres-de-Nimes
- Manuéla et François Chidaine from Montlouis and Vouvray
- Eric and Christine Nicolas from Domaine de Bellivière in Jasnières and Coteaux-du-Loir
- Isaure de Pontbriand et Evelyne de Jessey from Domaine du Closel in Savennières
- Geneviève Cormerais et Marc Ollivier from Domaine de la Pepiere in the Muscadet
- Franck Peillot from the Bugey (Altesse and Mondeuse)
- Francois Pinon from Vouvray
- Alain Renardat from the Bugey (Cerdon du Bugey)
- Catherine Roussel and Didier Barrouillet from the Clos Roche Blanche
- Françoise et Michel Tête from Juliénas
- François Cazin from Cheverny
- Luca Roagna from Piedmont
- Suzana e Stanislao Radikon from Radikon in Friuli
Finally, a public event at this year's rendition of the Real Wine Attack!
Crush Wine & Spirits – Public Only (Wine Trade People Banned)
Thursday, March 22nd, 6 to 8 pm
Crush Wines
153 East 57th Street (Between 3rd and Lexington)
- Eric Texier, Rhône
- Catherine et Claude Maréchal, Burgundy
- Pierre Breton from Bourgueil
- Henriette et Bernard Baudry from Chinon
- Jean-Paul Brun from Domaine des Terres Dorées in Beaujolais
- Palma Lohr Geiger et Guilhem Dardé from the Mas des Chimères in the Languedoc
- Claude-Emmanuelle et Louis-Benoît Desvignes from Domaine Desvignes in Morgon
- Manuéla et François Chidaine from Montlouis and Vouvray
- Grégoire Hubau from Château Moulin Pey-Labrie
- Jean Manciat from the Mâconnais
- Philippe Béraud from Mas Saint-Joseph in the Costiéres-de-Nimes
- Isaure de Pontbriand et Evelyne de Jessey from Domaine du Closel in Savennières
- Geneviève Cormerais et Marc Ollivier from Domaine de la Pepiere in the Muscadet
- Franck Peillot from the Bugey (Altesse and Mondeuse)
- Francois Pinon from Vouvray
- Alain Renardat from the Bugey (Cerdon du Bugey)
- Catherine Roussel and Didier Barrouillet from the Clos Roche Blanche
- Michel Tête from Juliénas
- François Cazin from Cheverny
- Suzana e Stanislao Radikon from Radikon in Friuli
Brooklyn is the hipster Borough and we'll be there.
Greene Grape Wines
Friday, March 23rd, 6 to 8 pm
765 Fulton Street in Fort Greene -- Call 718.797.9463
- Catherine Roussel and Didier Barrouillet from the Clos Roche Blanche
- Grégoire Hubau from Château Moulin Pey-Labrie
Prospect Wine Shop
Friday, March 23rd, 6 to 8 pm
322 7th Avenue in Park Slope -- Call 718.768.1232
- Jean-Paul Brun from Domaine des Terres Dorées in Beaujolais
- Pierre Breton from Bourgueil
- Alain Renardat from the Bugey (Cerdon du Bugey)
- Geneviève Cormerais et Marc Ollivier from Domaine de la Pepiere in the Muscadet
- François Cazin from Cheverny
Gala Marathon Chambers Street Tasting on Saturday, March 24th to End the 2007 Real Wine Attack!
Two Shifts of Tasting Starting at 1 pm and Ending at 7:12 pm
It might get tight, but we are going to do a two-shift tasting at Chambers Street on Saturday, March 24th so that everyone can fit into the shop at 160 Chambers Street!The event starts at 1 pm and goes on until 7:12 pm. There will be a slight break at 3:45 to rearrange tables. During both shifts, there will be an assorted table with samples of the wines being shown at the other shift. This all sounds confusing, but you will all see how simple this will actually be. The execution will be flawless.
Chambers Street Wines 1st Shift
Saturday, March 22nd, 1 pm to 3:45 pm
160 Chambers Street
- Geneviève Cormerais et Marc Ollivier from Domaine de la Pepiere in the Muscadet
- Jean-Paul Brun from Domaine des Terres Dorées in Beaujolais
- Claude-Emmanuelle et Louis-Benoît Desvignes from Domaine Desvignes in Morgon
- Françoise et Michel Tête from Juliénas
- Jean Manciat from the Mâconnais
- Franck Peillot from the Bugey (Altesse and Mondeuse)
- Eric Texier, Rhône
- Alain Renardat from the Bugey (Cerdon du Bugey)
The 2nd Shift
4:00 PM to 7:12 PM
Bette Restaurant Planning Fabulous Meals during the Real Wine Attack!
Bette Restaurant is going to have to fabulous events you will not want to miss. Call them at 212 366 0404 to make reservatons.
March 17:
RADIKON: 9PM
Kevin McKenna and Joe Dressner and LDM welcome this Slovenian couple to New York with this intimate, round-table dinner that will include 5 Radikon cuvees and 6 compatible courses. Expect a smorgasbord of oysters, smoked fish and game. A truly unforgettable evening. Only 14 seats remain so call early. $125 (all included).
March 22:
Eric and Christine Nicolas: The Best Wines in the World 7PM
Jasnières and Coteaux-du-Loir are making some of the best wines in the world right now. Never heard of Pineau d’Aunis? Come find out what all the fuss is about as I welcome Domaine de Bellivière to Bette for an unforgettable evening of food and wine. Six sumptuous 100% organic courses prepared with the winemakers cuvees. Chenin blanc from Domaine de Bellivière is so hot it hurts. Really. I’ll guarantee it!!
$80 (tax and tip extra) includes 5 cuvees and 5 sumptuous courses prepared with the winemakers wines and cooked in the style of Jasnieres.
My Fourth Podcast -- The Role of Consulting Oenologists in Winemaking Today!
The role of consulting oenologists, like Michel Rolland, Helen Turley, Scott Kraft and all those guys in Italy has become increasingly controversial!
I tackle this issue head-on in my latest podcast. This is an angry rant, no holds-barred, to set the record straight.
Joining me, is Evan Spingarn, the wine educator, who also works for David Bowler Selections in New York.
For more details, listen to the podcast below, either on your IPOD or on your desktop computer.
Wine Oenologists: Good or Bad?