Columnist Matt Kramer on Clos des Briords Muscadet 2002 I hate to quote the Wine Spectator, but we are sold out of this wine, so there is no possible commercial gain for us. So, here is what Matt Kramer just wrote in a column entitled "My Wines of the Year:" Marc Ollivier Muscadet Domaine de la Pépière Clos des Briords Vieilles Vignes 2002: When will Muscadet get its due? Frankly, only when more wines such as this single-vineyard Muscadet from 70-year-old vines are made and tasted by serious white wine lovers. Give this wine 10 years' aging and I promise you a revelation. All that for just 12 bucks a bottle. Very kind words, but somewhat misleading. The problem is not that Muscadet as an AOC does not get its due, but that the very few great wines from the Muscadet do not get their due. The general mediocrity of the AOC drags down the reputation and appreciation of the very few growers who continue to make great wines in the area. Guy Bossard, Jo Landron, Monique and Pierre Luneau and several others.... There ain't 100s of great growers in the region. And all of the truly good ones have limited quantities available. Of course, if more people clamored to get the few great wines that are available from this region, it would be an incentive for younger growers to work better. To aspire to make great wine. Unfortunately, the entire Muscadet is sunk into a terrible economic morass where only a few brave souls continue to shine. There is literally no economic incentive for people to do better. Only the fanatics and crazies continue to work well because they get satisfaction out of their work. Mr. Kramer finds 12 bucks a bargain. Certainly, it is horribly cheap for the quality of the wine and Marc Ollivier should be able to charge more and make a better living out of all his hard work. But I cannot tell you how many times I go around the country working with wholesale reps and have top restaurants tell you they have no room for a Muscadet because it is too cheap and have retailers tell you that the wine is great but they have no room for a Muscadet that costs over the magic figure of $9.99. Thanks though to Matt Kramer for a very kind and generous review. |
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"...- Joe Dressner 12-05-2003 6:25 pm [link] [8 comments] ..." |